The new Volver Restaurant at Hotel Universal in Livorno marks a stunning seaside return for the talented Chef Roberto De Franco.
Livorno is a beautiful and welcoming city—not just a port town—nestled along the enchanting Tuscan coast and lapped by the Ligurian Sea, with a long and rich history. It is the third-largest city in the magnificent region of Tuscany, with about 160,000 residents.
Livorno features a scenic and expansive promenade stretching several kilometers from the port area to the southern district of Antignano. Historically, this coast was dotted with watchtowers, some of which still stand today, often incorporated into larger structures.
In 1835, work began to extend the coastal road southward to the Ardenza district. Along this route, grand mansions were built—particularly between Porta a Mare and the Church of San Jacopo in Acquaviva. The next stretch, ending at the lush Ardenza Roundabout, saw the rise of elegant villas with spacious gardens and neoclassical dwellings known as the “Casini d’Ardenza,” designed by Livornese architect Giuseppe Cappellini (1812–1876) for visiting travelers.
The development of Livorno’s seafront infrastructure was further shaped by the opening of numerous beach resorts (from 1781 onward), the founding of the famed Naval Academy in 1881, and the creation in 1925 of the stunning belvedere that became known after WWII as the “Terrazza Mascagni.”
Toward the late 1800s, the promenade was extended south from the Ardenza Roundabout to Antignano, resulting in more charming villas such as Villa Barsanti (or Menicanti), Palazzina Vichi, and Villa Campari.
Villa Campari was originally a large farmhouse built in the mid-1800s by Fernando Bini. In 1888, it was sold to the Campari family and turned into a summer residence, renamed Hotel Savoia. In 1904, the building was acquired by Giuseppe Carpena and Eugenio Baldini, son of the famous Livornese painter Giuseppe Baldini.
In 1906, it became Villa Chayes (also known as Villa Carolina), purchased by coral industry magnates Guido and Adolfo Chayes, who made extensive renovations and transformed it into a private residence. The luxurious interiors—columns, capitals, stucco, stained glass, and mosaic floors—were likely crafted during their ownership.
In the late 1970s, Sicilian couple Giuseppe and Antonina Guddemi fell in love with Villa Campari and purchased it. After a six-year renovation, maintaining its original charm while adding modern comforts, the building reopened in 1978 as the current Hotel Universal.
The New Hotel Universal
In 2011, the hotel underwent another three-year renovation and reopened in September 2014. Today, the Universal welcomes guests into a uniquely charming environment, combining refined design with the building’s original Liberty style. The sea is just meters away, in front of the “Arenile della Donzella.” With parking, a large pool, indoor and outdoor spaces, and 22 well-appointed rooms and suites, the hotel offers everything for a luxurious stay. The reception team—Benedetta, Irene, and Ilaria—ensure guests feel warmly welcomed.
The current owner, Renzo Guddemi, proudly refers to himself as a “hotel-actor.” Born in Livorno, Renzo began his theater and film career at age 12 and took over hotel management in 2014 at just 28, following in his father’s footsteps.
On Friday, June 6, 2025, the hotel unveiled the new Volver Restaurant & Lounge Bar, headed by the accomplished Chef Roberto De Franco.
Chef Roberto De Franco
Born in 1972 in the stunning Pollino National Park in Calabria, De Franco grew up surrounded by breathtaking landscapes and rich culinary traditions. He began working in professional kitchens early on: in 1987 at Hotel Atlantic (4 stars) in Arona, Piedmont, followed by Hotel Giardino, also in Arona.
By 1989, he was Chef de Partie in several Michelin-starred restaurants (Emiliano, Antica Posta, Pierangelo). From 1994 to 2000, he served as Chef de Partie and later Sous-chef at “Tonio” in Prato, Tuscany.
In February 2000, he opened his first fine dining restaurant, Volver, in Prato—an immediate success recognized by top food guides, lasting nearly five years.
From 2005 to 2008, he was Executive Chef at Locanda Giustiniani in Fauglia (Tuscany), located within Tenuta Giustiniani. There he met Cecilia Lami, a Pisa native with international experience, who became his life and professional partner.
From 2008 to 2014, De Franco opened several restaurants: in Italy (Golden, Cala de’ Medici Port), in China (Isola in Shanghai), in Singapore (Zafferano, for Asia Food Concepts), and in Baku, Azerbaijan (JW Marriott Absheron).
From November 2014 to December 2021, Roberto and Cecilia returned to Cala de’ Medici Port to successfully run another Volver restaurant. Before launching Volver at Hotel Universal, he also consulted on restaurant openings in Milan, Montalcino, San Carlo Terme, and Sofia (Bulgaria).
Volver in Livorno
During my recent visit to Volver at Hotel Universal, I was warmly greeted by Renzo Guddemi and Roberto De Franco. For now, the restaurant operates in the open-air spaces by the pool and Lounge Bar while work on the panoramic terrace nears completion. In case of bad weather, indoor hotel dining rooms are used.
At the start of the menu, it reads:
“Volver is our story, a journey that begins in Tuscany, ventures to the East—Shanghai, Singapore, Azerbaijan—and arrives here, where the eye meets the blue horizon. Volver, the story of a journey and a return. – Roberto and Cecilia.”
The à la carte menu includes two tasting options (4 or 5 courses). The wine list features over 150 labels from top Italian regions and France (notably Champagne), half bottles, and dessert wines. The Lounge Bar offers an extensive selection of wines by the glass, cocktails, and more—all with excellent value for money.
On a beautifully set table with a linen runner, house-made fresh bread was served (polenta breadsticks, focaccia with EVOO, seven-grain bread, tomato and oregano crackers). An Italian sparkling wine, Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut (80% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Blanc), kicked off the meal.
Courses served included:
– Welcome entrée: marinated anchovy, orange gel, sweet and sour marinated onion
– Pink shrimp tartare, avocado, citrus emulsion, ginger, and soy
– Acquerello risotto with squid ink, marinated cuttlefish, raw shrimp, lemon, toasted almonds
– Burnt wheat tagliatelle, raw and cooked slipper lobsters, crunchy crumbs
– Seared turbot with herbs, saffron sauce, crispy fennel, olive pesto, tomato sauce
– “Goat Cheese and Berries”: goat cheese mousse, berry sorbet, cereal crisp
All dishes were delicious and elegantly presented.
Chef Roberto De Franco’s cuisine is refined, light, and flavorful, focusing on carefully selected seasonal, local ingredients of exceptional quality. His creations convey an effortless sense of pleasure.
De Franco is supported by a skilled young team: Sous-chef Federico Santerini, Capi Partita Emanuele Rossi and Daniele Campaccio, and front-of-house staff Giorgia Garzella and Valentina Comitini, all attentive and kind. At the Lounge Bar, talented bartenders Enrico Bendinelli and Alessandro Bleve complete the experience.
The new Volver Restaurant at the charming Hotel Universal in Livorno is a spectacular and flavorful seaside comeback for the brilliant Chef Roberto De Franco.
Giorgio Dracopulos
