There’s a place where the horizon meets our gaze, outlining an overwhelming sea that blends into pastel colors with the sky. A thousand shades exist between the blue, light blue, pink, and the vivid green of the vineyards that embrace the steep mountain slopes, holding the earth like loving hands. We are in the Cinque Terre, precisely in Volastra, a hamlet of Riomaggiore, situated at about 330 meters above sea level, with vineyards reaching up to 400 meters. To bring us here was Cantina Capellini, one of Liguria’s oldest and most authentic wineries.
The name Volastra derives from the Latin Vicus Oleaster, meaning “village of olive trees,” testifying to its historic agricultural vocation linked to olive cultivation, but it has always also hosted vineyards. Indeed, the Capellini family has been dedicated to wine production for seven generations, initially selling bulk wine and, since 2000, under their own brand.
Today, the winery is led by Luciano Capellini, his son Mirco, and daughter-in-law Laura. They have successfully modernized the business while clearly preserving the family tradition.
Their vision is both ancient and modern: “Viticulture in the Cinque Terre has always been called heroic, but we don’t see ourselves as heroes. We are simply custodians of this precious and noble nature that has provided sustenance for generations.” Laura Capellini told me this as we sat at delightful small tables in the shade of the rows of vines.
Wine Tasting
In the small production of about 9,000 bottles, divided into 4 labels, they reflect an ancient knowledge with an avant-garde flair. This includes wines like Vin de Gussa, a ripasso made on the skins of Sciacchetrà. This is the wine that, in my opinion, best expresses the soul of Capellini.
Laura continues, saying that Sciacchetrà embodies the deepest and most poetic soul of the Cinque Terre: “Until a few decades ago, the selection for making this passito wine was done by the elderly women of the village. At harvest time, they would go to the treacherous slopes and, with great care and masterful wisdom, pick grape by grape only those suitable for producing the nectar.“
A wine of great personality, intriguing, and suitable for aging. It pairs perfectly with blue cheeses or with salted anchovies to enhance its contrasts.
The Cinque Terre DOP is undoubtedly the company’s calling card. It’s their most produced wine and proudly carries the geographical designation, which the winery is very proud of and actively promotes. To produce it, they still use the “old” disciplinary, which required a minimum of 75% Bosco grapes. This differs from current regulations that now emphasize the Vermentino grape more, allowing up to 80% of it.
The Cinque Terre DOP is a highly enjoyable white wine, fresh and incisive, that evokes the minerality of the soil and the savoriness of the sea air. It pairs perfectly with typical Ligurian dishes, delicate soups, both delicate and flavorful fish, and white meats with aromatic herbs.
Another highly enjoyable wine, also good to drink chilled, is Menestrun d’Ua. This wine is called “menestrun” precisely because it’s born from a mix of indigenous grapes from the territory. It’s a lively wine with the spirit of a young one making its way in the land of whites, confident in conquering with its inherent qualities of freshness, minerality, and savoriness.
Last but not least, there’s obviously the Sciacchetrà DOP, by definition the “celebration” passito wine. Here too, the Bosco grape dominates, marrying with small quantities of Albarola and Vermentino. Less than 1,500 bottles are produced.
All these “goodies” can also be enjoyed by visitors directly at the winery, where they often organize music and tasting events that include food, with the spectacular natural surroundings as the main attraction.
Cantina Capellini is a vibrant, energetic winery with a broad vision for the enhancement of the entire Cinque Terre territory.
Alice Romiti
