In an intimate corner of Franciacorta, where the hills gently descend towards Lake Iseo, stands Ronco Calino: a winery that seems to have come out of a dream, made of silence, organic vineyards, an underground cellar, and thoughtful production choices. I was lucky enough to visit it in August, right on the eve of the harvest. Naturally, I couldn’t leave without taking a bottle with me: I’ll tell you later which one, but let’s start from the beginning.
Founded in 1996 by Paolo Radici, Ronco Calino is today one of the most refined names in the appellation, able to combine technique, aesthetics, and deep respect for the land. We are in Adro, in the hamlet of Calino, part of Cazzago San Martino. Not by chance, the name of the winery is a toponym that preserves local memory, a tribute to the history of these lands. In the 1990s, this small oasis won over the Bergamo entrepreneur, who transformed ancient plots, until then used only for grape sales, into an ambitious project.
In 1996, the first vintage of Ronco Calino was born, destined to become a small jewel of Franciacorta. Today, production amounts to around 75,000 bottles, and the winery is led by Lara Radici, Paolo’s wife, who carries the project forward with great energy, supported by a team of passionate young professionals.
What makes Ronco Calino even more unique is its agricultural layout: few can boast vineyards gathered in a single block, all surrounding the winemaking cellar. The 12.5 hectares stretch around the hill where the manor house stands, at about 400 meters above sea level, one of the highest points in the area. The predominantly north-facing exposure favors grapes of great freshness, giving the wines their unmistakable identity.
The style of the wines is clear and consistent: low residual sugars and patience. “Our wines are extremely awaited, and at the same time we seek to highlight our terroir, which naturally gives us a lively acidity for great complexity,” explains Anna Zanardini, head of sales. The “Franciacorta” collection includes Brut, Satèn, Nature, and Brut Millesimato; none of them are released before three and a half years after harvest. We’re talking about over 40 months of aging on the lees, well above the minimum required by regulations.
But it’s with the “Le Rarità” collection that the heart skips a beat. A project that embodies the entire essence of Ronco Calino and finds its voice in Pair, Blanc de Noirs Nature Riserva 2013, aged 120 months on the lees. Already, this is poetry.
In 2024 the wine is released onto the market and given its name. It was chosen by Paolo Radici, who passed away in that very year. “Pair”: in French it sounds like *père*, father. But it also means “pair,” or “couple.” It’s a name that contains everything: the paternal bond and the image of his two twins, his children, to whom he wanted to dedicate his last, precious legacy.
It opens with a very fine, precise, and persistent perlage. The bouquet is intense and precious, with notes of yeast, bitter orange, almond, and brined olives. On the palate, it is enriched by a savory touch that gives momentum to the sip, along with an intriguing hint of beeswax.
This is the wine that stole my heart and the one I chose to take with me, with the desire to open it in one of those moments that remain etched in memory. A toast that will also carry with it the wish left by Paolo Radici: “be happy and try to make others happy.”
Ronco Calino is also synonymous with exclusive and personalized hospitality. The winery offers guided tours 7 days a week, exploring the underground cellars where it is possible to discover the secrets of Franciacorta production, following the path of the grape from harvest to the prise de mousse.
Alice Romiti
