Autumn always brings the time to discover the results of the wine guides. It’s a somewhat particular moment. Let’s say September is the peak: the buzz is already hinting at verdicts and awards, but it’s from the end of the month—and into October—that the launches begin. I’m taking my cue from a non-Italian guide (from our friends at Falstaff, for which you’ll find an article here), which prompted a reflection that will continue through the end of November and will have me following as many presentations as possible.
As we go to press — pardon, online — with our weekly newsletter, I’ve had the chance to attend events by DoctorWine and Gambero Rosso: the former in Milan, the latter in Rome. My thoughts run on different tracks, from the meaning of awards to the appeal of the guide format, to the tastings themselves.
Let me start with the last of these. For an enthusiast like me, the tastings organized by the guides are always a chance to discover something I haven’t yet tasted, get to know new wineries, and meet old friends and producers. It’s a moment in our world that I find unique and lively. They’re also an opportunity for wine lovers to rediscover a personal favorite—or to find a new one.
I’ve noticed a steadily growing number of genuinely interested attendees at these events, and fewer people who just drop by to have a drink. Personally, I’d need 24 hours to satisfy all my curiosities; in the end there’s never enough time, and I’m left with that twinge of regret at not having managed to do everything I set out to do.
Another question: are the guides still attractive? Judging by attendance, very much so. They remain a tool for analysis and selection that can help professionals, enthusiasts, and consumers alike. Of course, we’re living through a period in which the entire press is undergoing change due to a shortage of readers (unfortunately), but the tool itself remains highly valid.
Finally, the awards. Clearly, because it’s a selection, some will be pleased and others disappointed. But—speaking from personal experience—there is the utmost objectivity in the tastings, even if the criteria can differ among the various schools of thought of the tasters. In the end, I’m a staunch supporter of the guide system. It’s a tool for everyone involved in the world of wine, and a benchmark for producers. I continue to think it’s better to have guides with their judgments than to have no press at all. Because as long as we have the press — with its errors and its differences —we’ll be a better world.
Riccardo Gabriele
