There is one issue that, more than others, has cut across the sector’s debate in recent days: the protection of appellations in a global context. The renewed spotlight on the so-called “Australian Prosecco”, brought back into focus by the EU-Australia trade agreement, is not merely a semantic dispute, but a strategic turning point that questions the entire Italian and European wine system.
Reducing the matter to a legal controversy would mean missing its broader significance. What is at stake here is the economic and symbolic value of DO and Geographical Indications—arguably the primary competitive asset of Italian wine. In an increasingly crowded and disintermediated global market, an appellation is no longer just a guarantee of origin: it is language, positioning, and a recognizable narrative.
The risk of “genericization” of iconic names such as Prosecco represents a potentially destabilizing precedent. If the principle takes hold that a name can be reinterpreted through an alternative geographical lens, it opens a fracture that could extend to many other denominations, particularly those most exposed in international markets. This goes far beyond trade diplomacy: it concerns the resilience of the European model built on certified quality and territorial identity.
At the same time, however, it would be short-sighted to view this development solely through a defensive lens. The global landscape is evolving more rapidly than the rules that govern it. New producers, new markets, and new consumption patterns are redefining value parameters. In this context, legal protection must be accompanied by a strategy of strengthened identity.
Defending the name is not enough; it must be made even more meaningful to the end consumer. This is where another key trend from recent weeks comes into play: the growing centrality of younger consumers—more selective, less volume-driven, but highly attuned to values such as authenticity, sustainability, and narrative coherence.
The real issue, then, is not only to prevent others from using the name “Prosecco”, but to ensure that no one else can replicate its meaning. This requires continuous investment in advanced communication, market education, and cultural stewardship of territories.
Ultimately, the Australian case is both a warning signal and an opportunity. It marks the transition from a phase in which the strength of Italian wine was driven by its diffusion, to one in which it will be determined by its depth of recognition. And, as often happens, the most significant challenges do not question what we are, but how effectively we are able to tell our story.
Riccardo Gabriele
