A somewhat unusual editorial this week—also a shorter one due to the May 1st holiday.
Unusual because I’ve chosen to dedicate it to a territory I’ve known for a long time and that has always fascinated me: Montefalco. I’ve been visiting it for about 20 years and have followed its evolution over time, not only by touring wineries but also by tasting different vintages with care and depth, thanks in part to many years spent collaborating with a wine guide.
I must admit, however, that it had been a while since I last devoted myself to a truly in-depth tasting. During this week’s Anteprima, I had the chance to undertake an excellent overview—also thanks to Maruska Passeri, the driving force behind the Consorzio, who helped me find the right timing and whom I’ve known for many years, and to sommelier Cristina, who maintained an intense pace that allowed for a focused and concentrated tasting session.
I chose to focus on Rosso, Rosso Riserva, and Sagrantino. Let me start with an overall impression: I was struck by the growth in quality across all three categories. I remembered a territory marked by greater inconsistency, whereas today there is a clearly identifiable common thread, with a higher average level. The Rosso di Montefalco is increasingly interesting. One might be tempted to use an overused term: contemporary. These are wines that are enjoyable and drinkable without being banal, with some particularly noteworthy highlights. The Riserva version is also compelling—certainly more ambitious, yet a full expression of the territory. And finally, Sagrantino. I’ve never hidden my passion for this grape variety, too often relegated to the role of mere tannin carrier. In the past, we certainly tasted wines shaped by a different philosophy, but today we are facing a new interpretation of Sagrantino, well represented by the more recent vintages. “Unfortunately,” we only had twelve samples from 2022. It would have been interesting to explore them in greater depth.
The best tastings? I don’t want to create rankings but rather pay tribute to this group of producers who have grown as interpreters of a remarkable territory and of a grape too often reduced to its tannic profile, yet capable of expressing great charm.And in the end, what remains are also the colors of the Sala Consiliare and those aromas that, as I walk down into the main square of the town, fill both my heart and my eyes.
Riccardo Gabriele
